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Panettone, once a food I didn't much care for, has now become a minor obsession. After trying various loaves over the years and being disappointed with the dry and crumbly ones, a friend introduced me to a panettone that changed my life. It had a light crumb and a flavor that melted in my mouth like cotton candy. Since then, I've delved deeper into the world of panettone and discovered some truly exceptional varieties.

Indulge in the Delights of Three Exceptional Panettones

Panettone Biasetto - A Golden Adonis

This tall and golden panettone from Luigi Biasetto in Padua has a rich citrus-and-vanilla perfume. The moment you unwrap its stately maroon-and-gold packaging, the aroma fills the air. Tearing open the toasty exterior reveals a marigold-bright crumb achieved with superb eggs and acacia honey. It's studded with bits of candied citrus rind that are a perfect balance of sweet, bitter, and tart. The raisins are plump and juicy, adding to the overall texture. Biasetto recommends serving it just above room temperature by resting it on the radiator or near a heated oven. This extra warmth opens up the flavors and aromas, deepening the woodsiness of the vanilla and softening the candied citrus. But it's also wonderful at room temperature. He wisely suggests eating it "two or three times a day" after each meal.The complex proofing process and baking techniques give this panettone its ideal degree of loft and levity. It takes on additional height while baking, lifting vertically like a soufflé. However, like a soufflé, it runs the risk of collapse once removed from the oven. To offset this, the loaves are flipped upside down to cool, skewered through their lower circumferences on dowels and left to hang until the steam and heat dissipate.

Acetaia Leonardi Panettone Balsamico with Sour Cherry - A Sultry Delight

Paige Lipari from Archestratus, a Brooklyn culinary bookstore, practically forced me to try this slightly unconventional panettone from Emilia-Romagna. Made by Acetaia Leonardi, a balsamic-vinegar manufactory since 1871, it has a yielding buttery interior with a sultry ripple of balsamic crema. This makes it noticeably denser than other high-end panettones with a slinky, melty chewiness that almost verges on cake texture. It's not your typical salad-dressing vinegar; it's the kind you drizzle on ice cream, adding a fruity and dimensional flavor. Leonardi makes two versions, one with raisins and the other with preserved sour cherries. Lipari was right; the sour cherry version injects a note of sourness that brings out the sharpness of the sweet vinegar, creating a welcome pucker of intensity.The combination of the balsamic crema and the sour cherries gives this panettone a unique flavor profile that sets it apart from others. It's a delightful treat that combines the richness of panettone with the complexity of balsamic vinegar.

Olivieri 1882 Apricot and Salted Caramel Panettone - A Creative Masterpiece

Olivieri, a bakery in Veneto with 142 years of experience, has perfected the art of making panettone. Its classic version with raisins and candied citrus has the airy tenderness of perfection. But the bakery's creative variation with pieces of floral-sweet candied apricot and a gentle swirl of salted caramel is truly special.The second special ingredient gives this panettone a pointed confectionary aroma on the exterior. Inside and on the palate, it adds a little extra sweetness and a tang of sea air. A good panettone has a relentless richness, and the salt cuts through it, opening windows onto notes of honey (though there's no honey), lemon, and enrapturing, sun-drenched butter. After trying this panettone, I started sprinkling a bit of salt on other panettones I tried, and they all improved. Olivieri has truly baked the secret right in.Panettone is a dichotomous food; there's magnificence and stultifying disappointment. But these three varieties have shown me the true potential of panettone. A loaf of panettone is enormous and keeps forever, making it a perfect treat for the holiday season and beyond. Whether it's the rich citrus of Biasetto, the sultry balsamic of Leonardi, or the creative apricot and salted caramel of Olivieri, each panettone offers a unique experience that is sure to delight the taste buds.